Research on jewelry marks
Research on jewelry marks| Trademarks | Jewelry Signatures | UK Signed Jewellery Information | Identification Guide | Signatures Of Designers
Below is the research we have done on international jewelry marks and trademarks. Looking at the information on the designer companies old and new that made or still make costume jewelry in the UK, USA, US (America), France, West Germany, Italy, Hong Kong, China, Switzerland, Bohemia, New Zealand, Canada, Africa, Thailand and Austria. We have included vintage fashion jewelry marks history, designer trademarks and patents as far as possible. Taking the stamps from the back of jewelry and hang tag information available.This list of costume jewelry signatures will be added to regularly.
Accessocraft - 1930 - 1998, US company with designer Theodore Steinman. Signature usually Accessocraft in script or capital lettering.
A * D - Andreas Daub - This company started about 1880 and continues today. Founded by Andreas Daub in Germany, this goldsmith strived to produce high quality jewelry. Not only in gold and silver but other non precious metals. They produce 2 lines per year. So lots of jewelry out there to collect. Signed A * S on a tag or on the pieces.
Agatha - 1974 to today. French company who opened their first boutique in Paris in 1976 and then went on to having over 200 boutiques in 23 countries. Famous for selling good quality jewelry. Their Scottie Dog design became so popular that they now have it on their logo.
Ainette - see Hollywood jewellery (UK company) and also Hollywood jewellery to buy.
AJC - America Jewelry Chain Co. They were in production from the late 1920s up to the late 1990s (1997). Quality jewelry with whimsical figural produced in the 1980s to 1990s and in limited editions make AJC items very collectible.
Alchemy Carta - see an extended article on this Gothic style company. Alchemy Carta.
Allen J J - Principle designer for the firm W & J Randell (Victorian)
Allen Kate - One of the Arts and Crafts designers in the first part of the twentieth century.
Allison Reed - 1970s to today, although a merger of two companies in the seventies already well established. This was the Walter E Haywood company and the A & Z Chain company. Based in Providence, USA and still selling gold, silver and costume jewelry today.
Am Lee - US company 1946 - ?, Produced sterling silver jewelry.
Angell Joseph - Victorian silversmith at the 10 Strand, London. Showed his jewellery at the 1862 exhibition.
Art - 1955 - 1970s, The US company often reflected classical styles.
Ashbee Charles Rober - Born 1863 to 1942. Important for the Art Nouveau period, inspired Celtic and continental Art Nouveau designs. Also developed jewellery for Liberty & Co. Founded the Guild and School of Handicraft in 1888. Which was not open for long but now famous for its furniture, metal work of course it's jewellery. His jewellery had peacocks, flowers, ships and included necklaces, buttons, cloak clasps, brooches - embellished with semi precious stones.
Asprey & Co - Founded in 1781 in Surrey, UK and continues today. They moved to Bond Street, London in 1847. Flourishing in the nineteenth century and received two Royal Warrants and a gold medal at the Great Exhibition from Queen Victoria. Up market luxury goods and fine jewellery. Clients include royalty, music and stage stars.
Aston T & Sons - Victorian jewelers based in Birmingham. Exhibited at the 1862 Exhibition.
Attenborough Richard - Victorian craftsman based in Oxford Street, London. Exhibited in 1851 & 1862.
Attwood & Sawyer (A & S) - Produced quality imitation jewellery from 1957 to today. An UK company started in porthcawl, Wales. Started by Mr Horace Atwood and with his partner Mr Sawyer, they produced jewellery including copies of the "Duchess of Windsor" jewellery. They distributed in stores across the UK, Europe and world wide. Now very collectible vintage. The company has been brought by the Buckley jewellery Ltd, that are now reproducing the famous A & S designs.
Attwood & Sawyer (A & S) - Produced quality imitation jewellery from 1957 to today. An UK company started in Porthcawl, Wales. Started by Mr Horace Atwood and with his partner Mr Sawyer, they produced jewellery including copies of the "Duchess of Windsor" jewellery. They distributed in stores across the UK, Europe and world wide. Now very collectible vintage. The company has been brought by the Buckley jewellery Ltd, that are now reproducing the famous A & S designs.
Ascot - Unknown , possibly to do with Ascot race course souvenirs. Men's cufflinks, 1950s signed in script Ascot
Askew - Askew of London seemed to be in production through the eighties to the early nineties. Their jewellery was often gold plated with a mix of statement necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches. Signed Askew of London. Famous owners of vintage pieces to date is Keira Knightley who was spotted wearing a bracelet. Prices are rising for these named pieces.
Autui - New Zealand jewelry company. Found on a leather flower brooch. Unknown and sorry no info found. Probably about 2008 dated piece.
Austrian Jewelry produced in Austria. Stamped on the reverse "Austria" or if you are lucky to find the original hang tag still attached. Above average in quality and produced in vast quantities in the 20th century for import to other countries.
Avon - US Company started around the 1880s. A door to door bookseller hit on the idea to also sell fragrances - and the company was in business. First called The California Perfume company. In 1939 the company became Avon Products. In 1965 the company produced its first jewelry. They were pieces that also had solid perfume compartments. The first ones were - bow shaped brooch/pendant, cameo pin, solid perfume locket, owl, leaf. As well as rings, tie tack (Bue Blaze), pillbox and wishing charm necklace.Many other pieces followed and they still produce jewelry today. Famous designers for Avon have been: Kenneth J Lane, Elizabeth Taylor, Coreen Simpson, Jose Barrera, Celia Feraud, Shaill Jhaveri with many collections including the collectible Egyptian Revival. Signature AVON with or without the ©. The initials some times seen are not the designer but an internal code used for the company who manufactured the piece. Eg SH, NR, MR, etc.
For photographs of older Avon jewellery see our blog.
For vintage Avon to buy.
A & Z Chain Company - 1905 - its amalgamation in about the mid 1970s into the Allison Reed company. Initially producing fine and plated (or gold filled as the American way of reference this) jewelry including chains. Based in the USA.
B David - 1945 - 1993, US company who produced some very pretty fake jewelry. Signed B David without the copyright symbol.
Baker Oliver - (1859 - 1939) Produced fine silver buckle designs in hammered silver with strong entrelac or curled motif patterns. Usually embellished with semi precious stones of cabochon. He worked for Liberty.
Balleny John - Victorian of Birmingham. Showed brooches in the 1862 exhibition.
Barcs - Australian company that produced jewelry at least 1980s up to the present day, maybe earlier as unknown? Brooches, necklaces and clip on earrings are still available. Signed BARCS in capitals with usually a design number. Possible link with Monet, as a brooch was almost identical except colors to a Monet piece.
Barclay - 1945 - 1957, US company who signed their jewelry "Barclay" ** not to be confused with McClelland Barclay pieces as they are separate companies.
Barclay McClelland - 1935 - 1943, famous graphic designer who was unfortunately killed in World War Two. The Rice- Weiner company produced his pieces, because of the beauty and his tragic early death. His jewelry now commands high prices.
Beau/Beaucraft - late 1940s to 2004. Produced high class sterling silver jewelry based in the US. On the par with Coro for collectibility.
Beau Jewels - 1950s - 1970s, US company. Little known about them but thought Bowman Foster Inc produced this line. Many of their lines had the earrings signed only and the brooches unsigned.
Ben Reig - 1950s - 1970s, early designer was Omar Kiam. Quite rare to find their jewelry.
Bengal Jacob - 1873 - present, Idar Oberstein, Germany. Famous for their Art Deco jewelry. Produced prolifically many different pieces. Exported world wide including Woolworths in the UK. Galilaith and chrome was used. Unsigned. The company was closed during World War Two, one of the sons never returned as reported missing. Flourished in the 1950s and 1960s. Not marked jewelry maybe a sticker. Most went wholesale to a retailer who would have sold it under their own name.
Berebi Edgar - New York company. The Berberi company started to produce jewelry in the early 1980s, with epoxy marbled earrings being their most produced as well as necklaces, bracelets and brooches. In the 2000s, this company changed direction completely and stopped producing jewelry and now make high end home ware and accessories such as mirrors, trinket boxes, picture frames and much more. Signature include engraved ©Berberi with the accents over the e's. Their early jewelry is unmarked and they used cards and paper stickers. Collectible earrings and other jewelry.
BJ - Unknown manufacturer - would suggest imported from China during the eighties and nineties. Seemed to have produced a wide range of jewelry from the whimsical, animal, cameo and floral. In brooches and necklaces.
BillyBoy - Born in 1960 in Vienna and founded Surreal Couture and then Surreal Bijoux on the Rue De La Paix, Paris. BillyBoy created surreal jewelry for Thierry Mugler and Charles Jourdan. Collects haute couture dresses and Barbie dolls, writing a book in the late 1980s.
Boden Niki - 1990s - today, German designer who is known for her fabulous mythical beasts, unusual designs and brilliant colors in necklaces, brooches, earrings and bracelets amongst many other decorative goods.
Bogoff - A husband (Henry Bogoff) and wife team that founded "Jewels by Bogoff" in Chicago. Produced high quality fake jewelry in the 1940s and 1950s. Then the 1946 to 1960s when the company closed after Henry's death. All the rhinestones were glued into place by hand. Necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches including matching jewelry sets were produced by them. Also pendant necklaces, imitation pearl necklaces and earring wraps. Signed © BOGOFF.
Boucher - 1937 - 1971, Marcel Boucher founded the US company. Jewelry marked Boucher or MB with the phrygian cap. Marcel died in 1965, his wife Sandra ran the company after.
Brown A R - English pewter company that is based still in the UK. A R Brown produce pewter pins sculptured in animal and bird forms. Very detailed jewellery pins that are signed on the reverse. Great little collectibles.
Brown T S - Associated with A R Brown in that this company was started by his son. Also producing fine pewter pins but aimed at the country sportsman. Includes fishing, hunting and sports pins. Also produce keyrings and pewter sculptures. Started in 1986 and uses high quality English pewter.
BSK - US, New York company in production from 1948 to 1983 approximately. Produced good quality jewelry which was originally sold in Woolworths and other department stores. Rising in price due to their enamel work which was very good. Also produced a range for the film "My Fair Lady" which are now very sought after. Signed BSK with the © symbol. The My Fair Lady pieces are signed as such as well as the designer. BSK stands for Benny Steinberg, Slovitt, Kaslo who were the founders of the company.
Butler & Wilson - It was in the sixties that the two men met in London. Simon Wilson born in Glasgow had previously trained as a hairdresser, he had been told of another man who looked just like his twin! Meeting Nicky Butler the similarities were in looks, both had blond long hair and both skinny. But their personalities were very different. The two teamed up and started to sell antique and vintage pieces from a market stall along the Portobello road. Specializing in Art Deco and Art Nouveau pieces. Soon in the late sixties, they were using parts of jewellery that was both antique and vintage in their own designs.
In 1972 they moved to their first shop in Fulham Road in London and continued to design their own range of jewellery. The eighties with the fashion for large statement pieces allowed Wilson and Butler to expand further. A large 6 foot billboard of Catherine Deneuve, displayed outside their shop, set the trend for other celebrates to appear being paid with jewellery from the designers. Amongst the celebrates that wear Butler and Wilson are Kate Moss, Sharon Stone, Dame Edna Everage, Jerry Hall and Faye Dunaway. Princess Diana was also a big fan, often dropping into the shop with a single bodyguard to make her choice.
In the mid eighties Simon Wilson took over the business when Nicky Butler went to America. They found that they wanted different directions. Nicky wanted to expand and live in the US, where as Simon wanted to stay in London. So the famous team parted. Nicky now designs silver and gemstone items, very distinctive and very recognizable with its influences taken from antique museum collections and Indian jewellery. He lasciviously uses multiple and over sized stones. Like Simon Nicky has sold through television shopping channels (HSN) and still retains a consultancy role in the Wilson and Butler Company to this day.
The recession in the nineties hit Wilson and Butler hard, forced to close their shop in Glasgow brought home the importance of diversification within a business. So the nineties saw the company add an unique range of bags, shoes and accessories and in the early part of this century they added a collection of jewellery made from semi precious stones. Further expansion in 1994 has seen Butler and Wilson selling their distinctive glitzy jewellery and their flamboyant accessories on the shopping channel QVC. In 2007 the men's range was introduced and recently beautiful vintage inspired clothing. Along with selling their items on QVC, Wilson and Butler have a website and three shops. Two in London at Chelsea and Mayfair with a third in Monte Carlo.
Their limited production of items allows the jewellery and other products to be potentially very collectible. Their early ranges from the seventies and eighties is sought by many collectors world wide.
Two books have been produced:
Rough Diamonds The Butler and Wilson Collection in April 1994 by Vivienne Becker.
Now out of print but copies are still available in second hand book shops and on the Internet.
Butler and Wilson 40 Years published July 2009 by Simon Wilson and Madeline Marsh. A special edition with a jewel encrusted cover is also available. Produced to celebrate 40 years in business; each book donates a percentage to Breast Cancer Care. Why because their shop in Fulham road was next to one of the largest cancer units. Women who had been diagnosed or attending for treatment would drop in to the shop and buy a piece of jewellery to cheer themselves up.
You may also be lucky to source one of their catalogue produced over the years on the Internet, but they now command high prices.
Butler and Wilson is marked B & W.
Simon Wilson is a workaholic, enjoying a simple life in London. He still loves antique markets and has never attended a jewellery course in his life.
Butler & Wilson is very collectible and now commands high prices for many ranges. See our vintage designer jewellery range for any in stock.
Cadoro. 1945 - 1980s, US company (Hollywood Stars) founded by actors Steve Brody and Dan Steneskiey. Following the death of Dan in the 60s The company ceased production in the 70s. But the jewelry was available until the 1980s. Good quality and now hard to find. Signed CADORO with or without the copyright symbol.
Camco - see Cathedral Art Metal company below.
Capri Jewelry Inc - This company was based at 392, 5Th Avenue, New York, USA. They were in production from 1952 until about 1977. One source sites that the owner was a Sol Smith. The jewelry company called DelNicola was incorporated into the Capri company around the sixties. Underrated beautiful and well made. They produced the usual pieces: necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches from rhinestones, mock pearls and art glass. Jewelry advertisements can be found on the Internet. Signed Capri and ©Capri in block capitals. For more vintage Capri jewellery and signature photograph information.
Cardin Pierre 1950s - Italian born designer who lives and works in France.Renowned for his space age and Avant Garde designs. Originally working with Elsa Schiparelli and then head of Christian Dior. Founding his own empire in 1950s, he went on to design not only fake jewelry but couture clothing, accessories, perfume, bags, cars and he purchased Maxim's restaurant chain. Preferring geometric shapes and motifs and showing such an elegance in design. Pierre Cardin also holds theater for show casing his creations. as well as music festivals. Logo is a curved P signature. For Pierre Cardin jewellery and accessories to buy.
Carnegie Hattie - 1939 - 1970s, US company owned by Hattie who was Austrian. Produced jewelry to compliment her dresses. Signed Hattie Carnegie, Carnegie or HC or HAC in a diamond shape plaque. Initially expensive pieces and remain so today. Very collectible and sought after as did not copy other manufacturers.
Carolee - 1972 - present. Started by Carol Friedlander in the US, first as a kitchen table project that escalated into the company it is today. Produced jewelry that resembles the Duchess of Windsor's jewelry. Available in up market departments stores in many countries and now available online. Just celebrated their 40th anniversary.
Castlecliff - 1918 - 1977, First signed their jewelry in 1941. New York company who produced high quality costume and sterling silver jewelry.
Cathedral Art Metal Company (Camco) - US jewelry company in production from somewhere between the 1920s to 1930s. Remained producing tie tack pins, brooches, necklaces until the late 2000s. Unsure at this point whether they are still in production. Signed their pieces CAMCO.
Caviness Alice - 1945 - 1997 approximately. US company that used the Caviness signature with and without the copyright symbol after 1955, so not useful in dating it.
Celebrity - New York, US based jewelry company. Estimated to have operated between 1950s to 1970s but little is known about them. High quality and a bit unusual was their speciality.
Chanel - 1914 - 1939, 1949 - present. French Coco Chanel designed her couture precious, and costume lines. Some of her jewelry is also dated as well as signed.
Cherry Chau - 1992 - present. French company and designer born in Hong Kong, studied London. Hair accessories and costume jewelry.
Ciner - 1892 - present, NY company that started to make fake jewelry that looked like real pieces in 1931. Famous for using small sparkling stones and beautiful enamels.
For more Ciner information and jewelry to buy.
Ciro Pearls - Ciro Pearls started producing jewellery in 1917. Until 1920 it sold all their range by mail order. In 1920 the company opened its first retail store. They also continued to sell by mail order and also from large department stores.By 1928 they not only sold imitation pearls, diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby jewellery, but also white zircon, cultured pearls, marcasite, precious stones and gold jewellery. Later platinum was introduced.
At Ciro Pearls height the company had stores and outlets across the world. But as with most old jewellery companies - the mass import of imitation jewellery, in the 1970s and the 1980s, from Hong Kong and other Eastern countries with the following recession; they saw a down turn of profit and in November 1994 the company went into receivership. The Ciro name and company was brought by a London Business man and now his family run business continue with the Ciro name. Ciro jewellery can still be found in quality department stores across the UK and in other countries today.
Ciro Pearls advertised with pride that their faux pearl and diamante items were difficult to tell from real pearls and diamonds. They produced necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, dress and double clips, rings, badge brooches of regiments, crown jewels reproduction and much more.
Vintage Ciro Pearls is usually marked Ciro or CP. However there will always be some of their jewellery that is not marked - as with all companies. Also some Ciro Pearls jewellery is marked twice with Ciro and the company who made it. Ciro adverts. Ciro Pearl jewellery and boxes to buy.
C J - Unknown signature. On many Scottish styled and inspired jewellery. Either marked just C J or C J Scotland
Claiborne Liz - Fashion designer Belgium/American 1929 - 2007. Established her company in the 1980s. Sold clothing, accessories and jewelry. Signed LC, and/or on a signature card.
Claire's Stores Inc - 1974 to present, world wide international company for young fashionable teenager or young adult jewelry and accessories. Aimed at children from 3 to young women of 27. Signature tag with just Claire's on denotes their items. In Jan 2012 they had 3017 stores world wide. They also have ear piercing facilities. The other brand the company uses is Icing in North America.
Coro company started in 1901 in the USA. It closed in the US in 1979 and in Canada in 1998. One of the most successful fake jewelry makers of the twentieth century. Produced with sterling silver during World War Two due to the lack of metal available. Also used many other names including Corocraft, Coro craft, Vendome and Jewelcraft. Up to 1955 they patented their designs, after they copyrighted them. Some of their jewelry is signed and some not. Had factories in the US and also Sussex, UK.
Coro - US jewelry company that had a factory in Sussex, UK from 1949. So although not English they did produce jewellery here in the Uk and you can find some pieces signed as such. In production from 1901 to 1979. The factory was taken over by Swarovski in the late 1970s or early 1980s. The jewellery is both signed and unsigned. Coro also produced many other pieces under various names including Corocraft, Jewelcraft and their high end pieces Vendome.
For the list of trade marks used by Coro signed jewelry.
Also for more photographs and more information about Coro see our blog.
Corocraft - see signatures used by Coro
Countess Fine Bone China - produced by Harleigh China Gift Ware Ltd of Amison Street, Longton, Stoke On Trent. At least 1971 to closed in 1988. 1971 is the earliest established date but may have started a lot sooner. Bone china pendants, plaques and gift ware produced. See bone china jewellery.
Coventry Sarah. Started in 1949 by the C H Stuart company. Selling at fashion and home parties, with department stores in the late eighties to early nineties. In the 1960s the company expanded and began home selling in England, Scotland, Canada, Belgium and Australia. Reaching its peak in the 1980s the company went into decline and stopped trading in the mid nineties. However had a brief revival in 2003 in the US. Some of its jewellery for the UK was actually made here in the UK. You will find boxes stating this little known fact. See Emmons jewelry also.
Huge amount of vintage jewelry and accessories can be found today still - brooches, necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, men's jewelry, children's jewelry, scarves and key rings.
Each collection was advertised in brochures which helps dating. Several books have also been written which are also invaluable for the name of each piece and matching items. Advertisements in magazines can be found.
Jewelry signed Sarah Coventry or an abbreviation: S C, Sarah Cov, Also marked targeted country on some jewelry i.e GB, UK and Canada.
For more Sarah Coventry information and jewelry photographs see our blog post.
For Sarah Coventry to buy.
Czechoslavakia - signed on some jewelry pieces, previous Bohemian named. The country came into being after the first World War in late October 1918. So jewelry signed Czechoslovakia is dated from 1918.
Danecraft - 1934 - present, Providence, Rhode Island, US company. The founder was of Italian heritage (Victor Primavera). Produced sterling silver and fake jewelry.
Daub Andreas - 1875 to present. German company producing high quality plated and fine jewelry. Signature is A * D.
Dawson Edith - Created beautiful enameled jewellery. Wife of Montague Fordham. Arts & Crafts designer of birds and floral delights.
Dawson Nelson - (1859 - 1942) Founded the Artificer's Guild in 1901 in London's Chiswick district. Taken over 2 years later by Montague Fordham. Arts & Crafts era.
DeLizza & Elter (D & E) - 1947 - 1990s, Brooklyn, US company sold worldwide. Made jewelry also for other companies including Weiss, Kramer, Hobe, Eisenberg, Sarah Coventry and hundreds of others. Also sold under the name "Juliana". Glitzy jewels produced over a long period of time with most unsigned but have features that pronounce them as D & E.
DeNicola - 1957 - 1973, New York, US company. Collectible for their Zodiac pieces and interesting unusual designs. Became part of Capri before closing down in 1973.
Denton China English china manufacturers originally based in Stoke on Trent where most of the UK potteries started. Now based in Berkshire. Produced a range of china flower jewellery. Brooches and earring, matching sets can be found. Bone china jewellery to buy.
Demario Robert - 1945 - 1965, NY USA company.
De Rosa - 1934 - 1970, Ralph De Rosa Company of New York, USA. Sterling silver used during World War Two, like most US companies and produced fake jewelry.
Dior Christian - 1948 - present. French company. Fashion, accessories, beauty, perfume and jewelry production.
DKYN - 1984 - present. Donna Karan, New York, USA company. Clothing, perfume accessories, jewelry and watches. Jewelry that you can't miss, it seems to have its name written all over it!
Dodds - 1952 - 1997. New Jersey, USA. Sold jewellery kits as well as jewelry. Can also have the following signatures due to the location: West 31 street, 11 w 30 st inc, 30 w st inc, w 30 st inc and also Doddz. Famous for their cat pins.
D'Orlan - 1957 - present, Canadian company. Founder Maurice Bradden, a protege of Marcel Boucher and first designed for the Avon, Belleville company. He established a factory in Canada in 1957. Manufacturer for Lancel and Nina Ricci jewelry. Famous for using Austrian crystal and producing good quality pieces.
Du Jay - 1934 - 1972, Many pieces were unsigned. High gloss enamel, pave, and bead detail is typical of the company who were originally fine jewelry makers.
DQCZ - Diamonique brand from the TV channel QVC. Cubic Zirconia synthetic stones are quality cut to resemble real diamonds.
Duke Elizabeth sold by the chain store Argos in the UK. Started around 1980 and named after the director's wife. Now changing to another brand "Jewellery and Watches" Good quality pieces that many have stood the test of time. Unsigned but can still be found in their original signed boxes.
Edlee - From the USA. Started production around the late 1940s until the 1960s.
Eisenberg - Information shortly to be included.
Emmons See Sarah Coventry. Emmons started in 1949 in the US by the same company C H Stuart Co. The jewelry was most of the times the same but marked differently. Sarah Coventry name became the main line selling at home parties.Marked signature Emmons. See Sarah Coventry information for more.
Empire Made Mark used by British companies in ?Hong Kong in the fifties and sixties under the Empire flag. G & Co? mark on a bracelet unknown with Empire made mark.
(Not to confuse with Empire in script from the US. This is written on boxes with unsigned jewellery. It is higher end pieces probably by Juliana - 70s and distributed from the NYC & Providence areas) For Empire Made jewellery and accessories to buy.
Exquisite -This was one of the ranges produced by the Watson Group Ltd. Originally started by W A P Watson (Walter Archibald Parker) a gilt chain maker in the late Victorian period to the early twentieth century. He sold gilt chains in the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham. In 1914 WAP Watson went of to WW1 and sold his business to Augustus Power and Clarence Flint. They kept the founders name and continued to produce costume and a small range of silver only stopping to assist in war work as necessary for both WW1 (and WW2). It was possible that WAP Watson intended to return but he was injured and invalid out of the Royal Warwick Regiment in 1923.
With just 6 people, the family and friends orientated company produced imitation jewellery and also a range of souvenirs and collectibles. With the buildings in the Jewellery Quarter becoming to small. In 1954, they moved to Solihull, just along Lode Lane down onto a 3 acre site in Vulcan Lane.
In 1954 the company introduced "Exquisite Company" and instead of producing jewellery as a wholesaler as previous, W A P Watson's now started to produce their own named jewellery (and souvenirs) direct to the retailers.
They continued producing imitation jewellery and souvenirs until the 1970s, where the influx of cheap jewellery from Hong Kong and other Asian areas made it difficult to continue. Many of the UK and world wide jewelers were forced to close their doors in this period.
They continued until 2007, when they sold their range of collectibles called Tudor Mint to the Xystos Group.
W.A.P. Watson were also responsible for Mirella, which was named after an employer in the 1950s and Myths and Magic fantasy collectibles.
Exquisite jewellery is unsigned pre 1955-ish. I do know for definite that up to 1953 - no jewellery was signed. Following that some was just on a padded card or un-padded card/boxed and unsigned and some pieces were signed. Particularly the necklaces were not always signed. One trade mark used by the company is the small bow tag on necklaces and bracelets.
The range is huge, floral and leaves were produced in many different finishes. Many hand painted enamel such as the Birthday Series. Souvenirs such as the Luck White Heather Scottish range of brooches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, scarf clips and rings. Rose signed Exquisite jewellery is displayed in our rose jewellery blog. Also leaf jewellery blog by Exquisite For Exquisite jewellery to buy.
Novelty and souvenir such as the Royal celebrations. Butterfly wing jewellery (well they were in the Jewellery Quarter when this technique was first invented there) faux semi precious stone jewellery, the list is endless as at their highest peak, they produced 20,000 pieces
Early pieces can be identified by the type of moldings, fastenings being riveted and signature. Also quality - a MOP and AB garland brooch was produced over a long period but the earlier brooches are of a much thicker MOP.
We have undertaken continuous research into the Exquisite and Mirella range. We are responsible for much of the information available on the Internet as before many thought the jewellery by WAP Watson had been produced in the 1950s and 1960s. For Exquisite, Mirella and WAP Watson jewellery and items to buy.
Fable - Mostly pewter style fantasy and magical inspired jewellery in fantasy or nerd designs eg dragons, wizards, planets. Signed on the back usually. Dates to the 1980s to 1990s. Now very collectible.
Fisher Alexander (1864 - 1936) Internationally famous enameller of the Arts & Crafts period.
Fordham Montague - Took over the Artificer's Guild and director of The Birmingham Guild of Handicrafts. Husband of Edith Dawson. Arts & Crafts designer.
Frey Michaela Vienna enamel artist founded her company in 1851 in Austria. She made beautiful enamelled jewelry. Brooches, bracelets, bangles, earrings, etc. The international company is now under the ownership of Friedrich Willie, a partner in 1972 who took over sole ownership in 1992. In 2002 the company became known as Frey Willie. Michaela died in 1980. The company is known in the international airport stores as well as shops world wide and selective stores. Michaela Frey's early made enamel jewelry is highly sought after.
Florenza - This New york company started out in 1940 to 1981 and they trademarked some of their items from 1956. Originally they made a living by selling their jewelry wholesale and did not advertise it themselves. Florenza had only one designer - Dan Kassof. Not all of their jewelry is marked and some was sold under other companies such as Capri and Coro to name just two. Well made and often plated with 24 ct gold.
Folly Kirks - from 1980s to 1st November 2014. Sold beautiful whimsical jewelry. US based company with fairy dust!
Garne - 1940s - 1960.A smaller jewelry company probably based in New York, America. They produced glitzy jewelry that was often hand crafted. Pieces that are signed Garne (with an accent over the e) have been found also signed Coro (same jobber) and they were known to have D & E make some of their pieces. Their logo is Garne in joined up writing on a slant with a small crown above. They made Garne necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches.
Gerrys - In production from the early 1950s to the mid 1990s. This US jewelry company produced different pieces from Christmas, cameo to floral and other motif. Classed as an average quality and worth collecting.
Gaskin Arthur - Husband and wife team with Georgina Gaskin. Arts & Crafts era, linked with Birmingham.Various designs used from Italian Renaissance to Scandinavian folk art. Head master of the Vittoria Street School of Jewellery and Silver-smithing in Birmingham. Botanical plant drawring was part of the curriculum, this was then used in their designs.
Gaskin Georgina - Wife of Arthur Gaskin - Most jewellery was produced by her. see above.
Ges Gesch - just means "Made in Germany" in German.
Giusti Louis - This Italian painter by trade has been producing jewelry since at least the 1950s. He has recently passed away. Signature is L G in a plain tag with a heart shape on its side. The L.G. is enclosed within this.
Goody - 1920s - ? USA company that manufactured in America dress clips and hair accessories in metal, diamante, plastic and other materials.
Grau David - David Grau was in business from the late 1980s to early 2000s. Not in production since 2004. Sold good quality jewelry and was based in Barcelona, Spain.
Hart May - Skilled enamellist who use plique-a jour techniques. Married to Fred T Partridge.
Henkel & Grosse - 1907 - 2005. From 1955 this company produced Dior jewelry. Good quality costume jewelry. For Grosse jewelry for sale.
Hodel Joseph - Arts & Craft's designer. Member of the Bromsgrove Guild of Applied Art in Birmingham. Produced floral leaf and fruit patterns in silver with semi precious stones. He made buckles, brooches and pendants.
Hollywood Birmingham Manufacturers - Bloxidge Brothers from at least 1929 until the 1980s. Signed from the 1950s - 1980s found. Very similar to Exquisite with some of the molds used, but copying was rife in the pre 60s era for many companies? Unsigned earlier jewellery can still be found if it is still in its original boxes that are signed. Sole manufacturer of their jewellery at one time was Woolworths. Which of course is now gone
Since writing the above: An advert came to light with a D Ackerman and Sons of London. That they were the "creators of Hollywood jewellery" as well as the Ainette brand. I have a theory that the Bloxidge Brothers made the jewellery for this company, which they then sold under the name Hollywood. - but this will need to be confirmed.For more Hollywood stamped jewellery information. To buy Hollywood jewellery.
Hollywood - USA company.
Hong Kong Following the cessation of the British Empire in the sixties , Hong Kong began to import jewelry across the world. Cheaper than most of the established manufacturers, this contributed to many of them closing. Signed Hong Kong on the clasps. Now collectible in their own right.
Honora - US company that have been trading since the 1950s in quality and affordable jewelry. Now specialize in selling freshwater pearls in all sorts of jewelry and in all sorts of colors. Plastic removable tag with Honora in capital letters.
Icing - see Claire's Stores Inc. N American store line for room decorations, cosmetics, jewelry and accessories.
IFS - relatively unknown but seem to sell pewter tie tack pins and kitchen ware in pewter. Probably Italian or European in origin.
Iris - unsigned faux pearl jewelry. Paper tag attached with Iris and a seahorse motif. From Majorca. Little information available.
Jewel Crest - Australian company that sells high quality jewelry encrusted with Swarovski crystals.Jewelcraft - Not a UK business but specific to the UK.
Jewelcraft was the name used by Coro (US) in the UK for their Jewelcraft jewellery. The company were not allowed to use the name Coro because of the UK company Ciro. So the majority of sales were under the name Jewelcraft here in the UK. The dating is unclear but the name was used in the fifties through to the 1970s when the company stopped trading.
Jewelcraft signatures are often in script, and look out for their distinctive pear shaped tag with concentric circles that seems to be used by only them. Signatures can be rubbed and difficult to find sometimes. See Coro for more information. For a Jewelcraft blog post.
Jewelcraft - see Coro above and for more Jewelcraft blog information and photograph collection.
Jonette Jewelry (JJ) - see our JJ Jonette jewelry information blog post on this US company which has examples of their signature and jewelry. Also see JJ Jewelry to buy.
Kaywin Novelty Jewelry - Late 1920s to the mid 1940s. New York company set up by Dan Kosoff and Marty Weiner. This was Dan Kosoff's first business before he went onto Florenza. The name is an imalgamation of parts of both of their names. They made jewelry including many dress clips and accessories with buttons, buckles and brooch chatelaines being popular. Rhinestones, beads, cabochon and brass stampings were used with findings and embellishments that were sold at that time. Signatured "Kaywin Nov NY" mostly, but also "Kaywin" on its own.
Keyes - Canadian company that was based in Montreal. 1940s to the 1990s production of high end fake jewelry. Friends of the Keyes included Marcel Boucher and Sherman.
Kigu of London - Kigu manufactured compacts for which it was famous for as well as a small range of Kigu jewellery. They also produced enameled pill boxes, folding mirrors, combs, clocks and other handbag type accessories
The first powder compact was created by Josef Kiaschek in Hungary. Gustav Kiaschek, his son went on to start the company KI-GU in Budapest.
Gustav's three sons emigrated around the world. George arrived in London in 1939 and founded Kigu of London. The war stopped production as with most of the manufacturing companies in the UK. All the factories concentrated on production for the war effort. Paul his brother joined the company after World War 11 in 1947. After George died in 1977, his son David joined the company until the early eighties when the company was sold to another compact firm called A S Brown who produced the range of Mascot compacts. Later Laughton & Sons (Stratton) took both the Kigu and Mascot brands and amalgamated it with their own famous brand Stratton.
Jewellery produced by Kigu is well made and seems to have been produced from the fifties. They produced some gorgeous cuff bracelets, earrings and necklaces in the fifties. A range of simulated marcasite in earrings and matching brooches called Marquetta produced in the 1950s. This jewellery were rhodium plated or 22 ct gold plated. Some of the range were hand enameled in three alternative colors. The earrings were either clip on, screw or in French wire form. The clipped earrings have a very distinctive clip finding not seen on any other earrings. Production continued into the eighties.
The mark used is Kigu
For some photographs of their jewellery and the Marquetta range. Also extensive information with photographs on the Kigu compacts and other accessories visit their information website. For Kigu jewellery to buy.
King Henry William Birmingham UK/London silversmiths & jewellery maker Victorian to ? See Shiptons also. Mark on silver was H W K. Arts and Crafts include landscaped boxes.
King Jessie M - Scottish Glaswegian born and worked for Liberty. Known for her Mackintosh inspired birds with flora enameled silver buckle work.
Krystal, London - 1980s to today. Produces Swarovski crystal encrused hand crafted jewellery made in the UK. Tag has Krystal London on and on the reverse the designer Kish.
Lane Kenneth J (KJL) - information to be added soon.
Lambournes Company founded in Birmingham UK. See our Lambourne jewellery information for more.
L C - see Claiborne Liz.
Lin - Bangkok, Thailand wholesale to suppliers. Started in 1985 and now sell world wide both jewelry and fancy goods. All are in silver.
Macdonald Francis - (1873 - 1921) Part of the Scottish Arts & Crafts movement famous four. Sister to Margaret Macdonald.
Macdonald Margaret - (1864 - 1933) Wife to Charles Rennie Mackintosh and sister to Francis Mackintosh. One of the 4 well known Scottish Arts & Crafts designers.
Mackintosh Charles Rennie - (1868 - 1928) Fore runner and well known Arts & Crafts designers in Scotland. With 3 other members of his family. See above and below.
MacNair James Herbert - (1868 - 1955) Husband to Francis Mackdonald. One of the four Scott's Arts & Crafts designers.
Mali - Hand crafted jewelry from the African continent. Well made and signed Mali. Similar to JJ in pewter.
Marsel Lorraine - American wholesaler in Texas. She used the signature "Lorraine © Marsel" on her jewelry, trinkets and accessories sold. However she is famous for reselling pieces brought from Florenza. These are marked with Florenza as well as Lorraine Marsel. if it only has the Lorraine signature - THEN it is not a Florenza piece.
Mann Adrien - 1968 - 1992 ?approx. Manufactures and retail of upmarket imitation jewellery, London UK. When dissolved in 1992/1993 Marcel Roland Mann b 1943, was the director. The company had the following companies also - The Ringleader LTD, Imitation jewellery supplies LTD, Amboise Promotions LTD, Adrien Mann (holdings) LTD, Adrien Mann (contracts) LTD, Paris London Manufacturers LTD, Adrien Mann wholesale LTD, Adrien Mann retail LTD. Unsigned and signed imitation jewellery produced.
Marks & Spencer (M & S) Started out in 1884 as a market stall selling penny items in England. Now a global company with stores that not only sell jewellery and accessories but food, home furnishings and clothes. Marked M & S. Accessories can be marked St Michael. For vintage M & S jewellery to buy.
MASJ Crafted pewter from Edward and Maureen Ann Story-Jones in the Mid Wales county of Montgomery shire 1984 to 2017. Silver Scenes range was started along with other gift ware in 1984. The items are silver plated over a pewter base. Just becoming vintage with the 1980s and 1990s usually signed and dated. Early pieces are signed AND dated - later post 2000s pieces appear not to be.
The company was taken over when the couple retired in 2005, and continued until June 2017, by the new owners Phil Wilson and Bill Whitby . The company has dissolved in 2017, but you will still find beautifully crafted jewellery and gift ware available today. For MASJ and Silver Scenes jewellery and items to buy.
Miracle - A Hill and Company LTD first started producing jewellery based in Birmingham in 1946. Predominantly producing imitation jewellery but also a smaller range of sterling silver and semi precious gem stone jewellery.
In 2006 the company became Miracle Jewellery Ltd and was still in production until 2013. In 1996 the firm celebrated its 50th jubilee.
Miracle jewellery although most known for the faux multi colored gemstone - Scottish and Celtic designs, have produced a wide range of historical inspired jewellery over the years.
From styles inspired from Africa & Chinese, Anglo Saxon, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Baroque, birthstone, Medieval & Gothic, Charles Rennie Macintosh, Roman, Commemorative, English, Welsh & Irish, nature & animal, heraldic, mosaic, Renaissance, Viking and including diamante, rhinestone, faux marcasite & pearls.
Most of Miracle are of faux stones with the exception of sterling pieces and those with semi precious stones that are marked "Miracle & gem" Also a small range of natural slate jewellery
Many different types from A Hill and Miracle LTD have been produced including necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings (clip, screw & pierced styles), brooches, kilt pins, key rings, rings, scarf clips, fobs and rosaries.
Non jewellery pieces include tea, coffee, caddy spoons and paper knives.
The majority of jewellery is signed, with only a few exceptions and when to add a signature was difficult. Notable look a likes to Miracle were the company Jacobite and Exquisite seventies range of faux stone vintage costume jewellery. Miracle jewellery company in Birmingham has closed its doors and shut April 2013. It is now owned by the Cornwall company St Justin.
Other signed jewellery associated with Miracle are:
Sol D OR Made by A Hill & CO LTD for Sol-var of Ireland.
MIZPAH - The vintage jewellery is signed Mizpah and have a double heart pierced with an arrow. Not to confuse with earlier Mizpah pieces from other companies that have Mizpah on the front of the jewellery. These were produced by Quarrier Ward and the Ward Brothers. The designs were taken over by the Miracle LTD along with the designs from W. Johnson & sons.
The Ward Brothers produced sterling silver from the nineteenth century and were originally based in Edinburgh. Moving to Birmingham to increase production, this company produced Scottish designs with brilliant faceted stones. Marked with the Ward Brothers Birmingham or Edinburgh assay hall mark or if under 7 grams in weight they are marked "sterling/silver and WBs"
The Ward Brother's designs were acquired by Miracle and today are still produce, now by St Justin of Cornwall.
For information on collecting Miracle's jewellery join the excellent forum on Yahoo run by Carole Morris. For Miracle Ltd visit their website for Miracle being produced today.
Jewellery by Miracle, SOL D'OR, Mizpah and the Ward Brothers is very collectible.Miracle jewellery with St Justin jewellery to buy.
Monet. For Monet jewelry information and great jewelry pictures, see our Monet blog. Also see Monet jewelry to buy.
Napier. 1878 - today see Napier jewellery information for a more in depth history and our Napier jewelry to buy.
Pell 1941 - present day, Company situated in Long Island, New York, USA. Produced fake jewelry of good quality the simulated "fine" jewelry. Uses rhinestones, crystals and other stones. Family business stated by brother's Gaita.
PL - unknown but probably an Asian manufacturer from the 1980s and 1990s.
Princess Pearls - Unknown company. Hang tag on a faux pearl necklace.
Royal Orchid Company LTD - Jewelry company from Chiang Mai, Thailand. Producing orchid design jewelry.
RT - unknown company. Mark found on a 1980s enamel jewelry brooch. Copyright signature and similar backing to the jewellery of the "Fish".
Sara - Unknown company with a heart shaped tag. On one side of the tag is the words Sara in lower case and the other has 3 dashes that form a face. Quality gemstone made jewelry. Be aware that Sarah Coventry jewelry has been known to be signed sara - although this is rare.
Sherman 1947 - 1981 Canada's finest glitzy jewelry producer. Gustave Sherman in Montreal. Produced gorgeous rhinestone and crystal jewelry including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Aurora borealis effect on his stones is thought to predate the stated start date of use in 1956. Used Swarovski crystal in his Sherman jewelry and rhodium plating especially to the back of the pieces. Unfortunately many of his pieces were not signed. Those that were can be dated from the type of signature
Sherman in script on an oval plaque is the earliest for the 1950s. In a rectangle the 1960s.
Identification - a square rhinestone tag at the very end of the necklaces.
They do sparkle is one of their characteristic features due to the Swarovski stones
If you like very sparkling rhinestone jewelry then this is one to collect.
Sphinx -English company For Sphinx information and photographs. To buy Sphinx jewellery.
Swarovski - This company used the swan emblem to mark their jewelry.
Taiwan - jewelry and accessories actually made in Taiwan.
Taylor Elizabeth In the 1990s Elizabeth Taylor promoted her perfume "White Diamonds" with several items of jewelry including a brooch and clip earrings with bows and diamante. These are signed with a signature "WD" and identified from their boxes. Still today, some gift sets include her designer jewelry the most recent a pendant with a chain seen in 2015. She also had a range of costume jewelry especially designed for her tastes with Avon in the 1990s. They are now very collectible. Since her death and sale of her fine jewels. There are quite a few companies making copies of her most famous pieces under her name. This includes QVC.
For more Elizabeth Taylor jewelry information see our blog post.
Trifari - see Trifari jewelry to buy and more in depth information Examples of Trifari jewelry and the mark on the back. See below :-
Torino - American selling company that sells pewter jewelry with a novelty flare.
Ultra Craft - US company based in Rhode Island. Founder was Luigi Guadagno (C1936 - 2002) an American Italian who was born in Italy. The company made the Miss Universe and Miss America crowns in the eighties. Just a few pieces of Ultra Craft jewelry is available on the web. Brooches and earrings mostly found. Hand finished in large sizes and two tone or single colored metal. Pewter used with gold tone metals. A mix of whimsical and arty. Loved cat designs!
Vendome - see Coro for Vendome information.
Vogue Bijoux - High quality jewelry produced in Italy. This company closed in the 1990s and were famous for their hand finished costume pieces. Often finished in 18 ct gold plate. They are not the same as Vogue jewelry - which is a completely different brand.
Vogue No 1 - Unknown company but probably from Asia. Late 1980s to the 1990s selling costume jewelry.
Walter E Haywood - 1851 - 1970s (merged into the Allison Reed company). Based in the US. Sold gold plated, silver and gold jewelry. Signature of Walter E haywood or just Haywood.
Warner Brothers - copy right jewelry produced for the film company. Under Warner Bros marking.
West Germany - Western Germany jewelry signed pieces will only date between the years 1949 to 1990 when the republic of Western Germany was in existence.
Willie Frey - see Michaela Frey information.
Yves St Laurent - see YLS jewelry mark on the reverse of his jewelry.
1928 Jewelry - 1960s to the present day (USA). Online shop as well as several outlets in California and a shop in Canada. Also sells to the Macey's Store. Sells their own antique and vintage jewelery inspired brands lines under various names includes "Downton Abbey, Signature 1928, Antiquities Couture, Symbols of Faith, 2028 and many more.
Showing 61 of 61 results
£6.00Modern pre owned 2008.
£15.001980s - 1990s.
£15.001970s - 1980s.
£30.00Set of pendant chain & matching clip earrings including original box.
£4.50By Natasza Kura. New.
£90.001980s vintage clip earrings..
£12.90May be vintage.
£90.001960s to 1980s.
£14.001970s West German.
£14.001980s to 1990s.
£30.00Vintage brooch & clip earrings 1950s.
£20.00Modern pre owned.
£4.50Modern pre owned.
£4.50Modern pre owned. Size Q UK.
£15.00Modern & pre owned on original card.
£5.00Modern pre owned.
£5.00Size R to O UK large. Unused By Ginatricot of Switzerland.
£10.00Modern pre owned by Himson.
£42.00Vintage set bangle & ring by Michaela Frey.
£30.00Vintage, unknown age.
£90.001960s necklace & bracelet by Monet.
£22.001970s from Hong Kong.
£12.90Modern pre owned.
£15.00Handmade from Thailand.
£14.001980s. West German.
£22.001970s to 1980s.
£12.901970s to 1980s.
£20.001980s to 2000s.
£6.00Size O - UK medium. Modern unused. By Jueiz.Out of stock
£14.00Modern pre owned.
£14.001990s by Vogue No 1.
£10.00By Eaton's of Canada.
£5.00Size L UK. Modern pre owned. By Greville
£0.001960s. SOLDOut of stock
£0.00SOLDOut of stock
£0.00SOLD.Out of stock
£0.00SOLDOut of stock
£0.00SOLDOut of stock